We strongly emphasize the importance of proactive care in maintaining your Bull Terrier’s well-being. Bullies require a combination of routine veterinary checkups, proper nutrition, regular exercise, and preventive measures to ensure longevity and comfort.
We encourage handlers to set aside some Bullie SPA time each week dedicated to these aspects of care.
Caring For Your Bull Terrier’s Ears
Let’s start by examining the complex structure of a dog’s ear. It is divided into three parts: the outer ear, middle ear, and inner ear.
Outer Ear
Ear Flap (Pinna): The visible, fleshy part of the ear that collects sound.
Ear Canal (External Auditory Canal): Extends from the ear flap to the eardrum, leading to the middle ear.
Middle Ear
Eardrum (Tympanic Membrane): Separates the outer and middle ear; it vibrates in response to sound waves.
Ossicles (Bones): Transmit vibrations from the eardrum to the inner ear.
Inner Ear
Cochlea: Converts vibrations into nerve impulses for hearing.
Vestibular System: Responsible for balance and spatial orientation.
Types of Ear Infections
Outer ear infection (otitis externa). A waxy, yellow, or reddish-brown, or dark black-brown ear discharge can be a sign your dog has some sort of problem or infection, A problem like this requires prompt attention from your veterinarian because there can be many different causes of the discharge or inflammation. A prompt and accurate diagnosis will help decide the appropriate medication needed to effectively treat the underlying cause of the problem, so it doesn’t get worse.
Inner ear infection (otitis interna) or middle ear infection. An untreated external ear infection can easily lead to a very painful middle or inner ear infection, both of which mirror otitis externa symptoms as well as a reluctance to open the mouth or problems with balance or wobbliness. Some dogs may walk in circles or become nauseous.
To avoid problems with your dog’s ears it is important to examine them regularly. Normal ears should appear similar in appearance and smell.
Possible Causes of Ear Issues
Before you break out the dog ear cleaner, check to make sure your dog actually needs to have their ears cleaned. As indicated above, over-cleaning your dog’s ears can lead to infection and irritation. So, familiarize yourself with what a healthy, clean ear looks like (pink, odorless, and not dirty or inflamed) and smells like (not yeasty or stinky) and clean it with a cleanser only when you notice a change.
Bull Terriers have prick ears which makes examining them easy! The downside to that being that they are more susceptible to getting moisture in their ears when in contact with water (swimming, baths, rain, humid weather). Hormonal changes, especially while pregnant or post whelping, can also bring on ear infections.
They are incredibly susceptible to hematomas so all the more reason to do a weekly exam as excessive shaking or scratching at the ear can cause a hematoma. If you notice your dog shaking their head, pawing their ears, tilting their head more than normal or if you notice a mild odor, it’s probably time for an ear cleaning.
You only need a few supplies to safely clean your dog’s ears: a cotton ball or gauze, an ear cleaner, and a clean towel. Avoid using cotton-tipped swabs as they can push dirt and debris deeper into your dog’s ear canal which can cause infections and/or trauma to the inner structures of the ear. Cleaning your dog’s ears is simple but messy so be prepared!
In Summary:
Inspect Regularly
- Check for redness, swelling, or unusual odors.
- Look for discharge, debris, or signs of discomfort.
Keep clean
- Use a vet-approved ear cleaning solution.
- Gently wipe the visible part of the ear with a cotton ball.
- Avoid inserting objects into the ear canal, as it can damage the eardrum.
Prevent Moisture
- Minimize water exposure during baths and swimming.
- Dry the ears thoroughly if they get wet.
Address Discomfort
- If your dog shows signs of ear discomfort (scratching, head shaking), consult your vet.
- Ear infections may require specific treatment.
Proper dental care for your dog is crucial for their overall health and longevity. A combination of home care and professional guidance can ensure their teeth stay clean and healthy. It’s important to keep them clean and free of plaque and tartar. Plaque and tartar harbor bacteria that eat away at both the teeth and gums. Halitosis,periodontal disease , oral pain, and tooth loss can occur. However, the bacteria not only cause disease in the mouth; they can also affect other parts of the body, like the heart and kidneys.
It is important to inspect your dog’s teeth regularly to ensure there are no issues. If you start a tooth care routine when your dog is a puppy it will help both of you acclimate to it being a regular part of your daily/weekly routine.
Puppies have 28 deciduous teeth that typically are all in when they are about eight weeks of age and are then typically replaced by 42 adult (permanent) teeth by about six months of age.
There are several methods by which you can care for your dog’s teeth:
Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth
Introduce the toothpaste by letting your dog lick it from your fingers. You can use a toothbrush, a brush that fits over your fingertip or even a microfiber towel over your finger. Once your dog is accustomed to the taste of the toothpaste add it to the toothbrush/brush/towel and brush slowly from front to back and top to bottom. It’s important to use veterinarian-approved toothpaste for dogs and never use toothpaste intended for humans as it’s toxic for dogs. There are also enzymatic toothpaste options that help break down plaque and reduce bacteria. These toothpaste options are safe for dogs and can enhance the effectiveness of your brushing routine. You can also make your own paste by combining coconut oil, ground eggshells -or- baking soda and a few drops of mint oil.
Dental Wipes
While not as effective in getting into the nooks and crannies of the teeth dental wipes provide an alternative for dogs resistant to toothbrushes. Gently wipe your dog's teeth and gums, removing debris and promoting oral hygiene. Choose wipes specifically designed for dogs.
Dental Chews and Toys
Be sure to invest in dental chews and toys that are designed to reduce plaque and tartar. Chewing helps stimulate saliva production which will naturally clean teeth. Additionally the gnawing scrapes plaque off your dog’s teeth and many all-natural chews made from meat contain enzymes that help promote dental health. Typically, dental chews need to be given on a daily basis in order to be effective and should be large enough that your dog has to chew on them for a while before swallowing. They should be easily digestible and appropriate for your dog's size and chewing habits.
Dental Treats
Dental treats serve a dual purpose they provide a snack for your dog while also helping to clean their teeth. Like with dental chews your dog’s chewing action stimulates saliva production, which can naturally wash away bacteria and debris but be sure to select dental treats that are designed to promote oral health. These treats often have a textured surface to help remove plaque and tartar. Additionally, they may contain ingredients that combat bad breath. Always opt for dental treats with quality ingredients like chlorophyll, which aids in freshening breath, or enzymes that help break down plaque. Avoid treats with excessive sugars or additives and remember they are not a substitute for brushing.
Water Additives
Dental water additives can be added to your dog's water bowl to help fight plaque and freshen breath. Choose products that are safe for pets and follow recommended usage instructions. Be sure to change water once a day.
Professional Dental Cleanings
Nothing is as effective as a cleaning performed by a professional! These cleanings should involve a thorough examination, removal of tartar, and address any potential dental issues. It is not uncommon for them to be performed under anesthesia as specialized tools are used to scale the teeth, removing tartar and plaque from both above and below the gumline. After scaling, the teeth are polished to smooth the surfaces and discourage the rapid re-accumulation of plaque. Schedule regular professional cleanings with your veterinarian. Follow your vet's recommendations for the frequency of these cleanings.
Additional Notes
Tennis balls act like sandpaper on the teeth and will wear them down.
Cooked bones are dangerous as they splinter and pose a choking hazard.
Raw bones should be used wisely – they are helpful in keeping a dog’s teeth clean but can occasionally cause the teeth to chip.
It is recommended to brush your dog’s teeth at least two to three times per week and take your pet for a professional dental cleaning once a year to prevent serious dental disease.
As your dog gets older, more frequent veterinary dental cleanings may be required.
Keep up with routine veterinary check-ups, including dental examinations. Your vet can provide guidance based on your dog's specific needs and recommend adjustments to your dental care routine.
Dental care is an ongoing process. Be patient, stay consistent with the routine, and make it a positive experience for your dog.
Here is a synopsis of a paper published in 1999.
A REMOVABLE ORTHODONTIC DEVICE FOR THE TREATMENT OF LINGUALLY DISPLACED MANDIBULAR CANINE TEETH IN YOUNG DOGS Leen Verhaert, DVM
Summary:
The malocclusion of lingually displaced mandibular canine teeth is a common orthodontic problem in the domestic dog. Several treatment methods have been described, and their advantages and disadvantages have been extensively reviewed. This article describes a functional technique used in 38 dogs of different breeds for correction of the malocclusion. The technique consists of stimulating the dog to play with specific toys. It is a simple, inexpensive, non-invasive technique that has a success rate comparable to conventional orthodontic techniques for treatment of this common malocclusion. J Vet Dent 16(2); 69-75, 1999.
Here is my paper on Malocclusions. Linguoversion (lingually displaced or base narrow mandibular canine teeth) when the jaw-length relationship is normal or when there is only a mild class II malocclusion (lower jaws too short compared to upper jaw) may sometimes be amenable to this very simple technique. It involves the use of a removable, passive-force orthodontic appliance in the form of an appropriately sized pliable ball toy or a Kong® Classic™ toy.
My current recommendation for the ball to use in this technique is the Chuckit® Ultra Ball. They are available in three sizes (small, medium and large) so you can get the size best suited to your pet. The photo top-right shows the desired size of the ball relative to the space between the lower canine teeth so that the ball is applying some gentle outward force on the tips of those teeth as is sits in that space.
Do not use tennis balls as the nylon fuzz is very abrasive and can cause serious dental wear.
The concept is amazingly simple. Have the owners encourage the dog to hold/carry the ‘appliance’ as much as possible, holding it in the mouth just behind the canine teeth. The presence of the ball will apply a gentle force on the lower canines out towards the lips and encourage these teeth to tip into proper position as they are erupting. In the picture above, the medium-sized Chuckit® ball is an appropriate fit for this model of a mouth.
In the next photo (top of page 2), we see the same model holding a small Chuckit® ball. This small ball is almost too small to apply the desired force on the canines and if it got to the back of the mouth (next photo), it could be a choking hazard.
Next we see the large Chuckit® ball in the model and it is too large. It sits too high on top of the lower canine tooth tips and would not apply the outward force we are looking for.
Here is a Case Report showing before and after images of a dog who responded well to Ball Therapy.
As with any intervention, case selection is important. Ball Therapy is really intended to help guide the eruption of the lower adult canine teeth in dogs whose jaw-length relationship is normal or close to it. It will not work for dogs with significant class II or class III malocclusions. I almost never recommend Ball Therapy for the primary (baby) teeth, preferring to extract those temporary teeth for various reasons.
For puppies who have had their lower primary canine teeth extracted because they were lingually displaced, I typically recommend starting to train the pup to play with balls about 7 to 14 days after the extractions (giving those wounds time to heal first). This may be well in advance of the eruption of the adult teeth but my thinking is that if the owners can train the dog to be playing with ball before the adult teeth start erupting then they are already doing it as soon as the adults start erupting and we get the maximum benefit from the activity.
The next best time to start this treatment is as soon as the adult canine teeth have broken through the gingiva and the primary canine teeth have exfoliated or been removed. Typically, this is around 5 to 5.5 months of age. It is far easier to encourage the erupting teeth to go where we want them to be than to move teeth once they have finished erupting, so timing is important here.
Typically, puppies are seen at 8, 12 and 16 weeks for vaccines and then not again until 6 months for spay/neuter and so the best window of opportunity may be missed with this schedule. I always recommend that puppies also be examined at 5 months of age for a dental development evaluation. If, at this visit, there is concern that the mandibular canines are erupting base-narrow, a few weeks of ball therapy may just help the problem resolve without any further intervention.
I see no down-side to trying Ball Therapy in the right circumstances. There is no anesthetic involved, the appliance costs only a few dollars, the ‘procedure’ is painless and voluntary. So even if Ball Therapy does not work, at least it will do no harm. Also, even if Ball Therapy does not fix the occlusion, at least we now have a dog who has been trained to play with appropriate toys and that can have a life-long benefit.
Some tips on instituting Ball Therapy
Recently a client shared how she trained her pup to chew on his ball and gave me permission to share her technique. In this case, I had seen the pup at 9-weeks of age to remove the lingually displaced lower primary canine teeth and recommended ball therapy to be started as soon as those extraction sites had healed so the pup was well indoctrinated by the time the adult teeth started to erupt. Here is what the client did:
We played fetch with every meal and fed him spoonful by spoonful. This was working to have the ball in his mouth, but there was no chewing. So, I bought a Kong™ crackle ball and squeak ball to teach him to chew. Every time he made the ball squeak or crackle, I would mark and reward. Eventually, anytime he had a ball he would chomp, even with the hockey balls. So, we continued fetch for meals and put away all the other toys like you suggested.
This method worked very well, and the dog’s lower adult canine teeth are now right where they should be. One of the keys to success here, I am quite convinced, is the early (8 to 10 weeks of age) removal of the displaced lower primary canine teeth combined with the ball therapy with training starting before the adult teeth have started to erupt. That gives us the best chance of a successful outcome.
As that owner alluded to, we recommend removing all toys from the environment and then filling the house with balls so the only toys available are the balls and they are all over the place so anytime the dog feels the need to have something in its mouth,there is a ball close by. After the teeth have moved to their desired location, the pup can have its other (appropriate) toys back again.
While I am on the subject of toys, let me remind you of the Kneecap Rule. Many things people give their dogs to chew and play with are very damaging to teeth (too hard, too abrasive or both). The Kneecap Rule states that if the object it hard enough to hurt your dog if you smacked them in the kneecap with it, then it is too hard to chew on. This would include natural bones, nylon bones, antlers, large raw hide, dried bull penises (“Bully Sticks”), dried cow hooves, ice cubes, rocks…
Even some soft toys are very damaging. Tennis ball and other toys covered with that material are very abrasive. The fuzz is abrasive itself. It also traps dirt/sand/grit and so now chewing on the toy is like chewing on sandpaper and can wear teeth down in a hurry.
So, we want pliable toys that are smooth(ish) and can be kept clean and free of grit.
Conclusion
Ball Therapy is a great technique for dogs with lingually displaced lower canine teeth and normal or near-normal jaw-length relationships.
Ball Therapy is intended to guide or shift the erupting lower adult canine teeth to desirable positions.
Ball Therapy is not for primary teeth. If the lower primary (baby) canine teeth are lingually displaced, they should be extracted ASAP to immediately alleviate the painful traumatic contacts and give the best chances for a successful outcome. Then, after healing of these extraction sites, Ball Therapy can be started to guide the eruption of the adult teeth.
Dremel is the brand name of the rotary tool used in this article. It's one of many rotary tools you may choose to use.
The abridged summary answer to this question is that it is more comfortable for the dog and you can get the nails shorter and smoother (which is nicer for you). Many dog grooming professionals agree that this is actually a much more comfortable method of maintaining nails than clipping them because it does not pinch or hurt the quick. The quick is sensitive living flesh inside your dog's nail. With our large dogs, in order to cut through the hard shell nail, you must squeeze the nail between the clipper's two surfaces. When you squeeze in on the nail, you invariably must pinch down on the quick inside the nail. The harder the nail, the more the pressure you must apply. Thus, it can be very uncomfortable for the dog. Also, when clipping on dark nails, you are effectively cutting blind. When using a Dremel properly, there is no squeezing or pressure on the quick with the Dremel. Further, you can see "inside" the nail as you gradually grind back to the quick. So, you can judge when you're getting close to nicking it and stop in time. With the Dremel, you can also grind off all around the quick so that it recedes faster and you can get even shorter nails. The closer you can get to the quick, the more you can force it to recede and the more quickly it will recede. Finally, you can grind off all the corners and rough edges leaving nice soL nails that don't gouge nearly so much.
The equipment to use:
Use a Dremel with the sliding variable adjustable speeds from 5,000 rpm to 30,000 rpm for full grown Bull Terriers. For small dogs or for puppies, use the smaller and more maneuverable cordless version if possible. Although the Dremel can obviously go much faster, do not go above the "2" setting on it. If you use it much faster, the friction will be too great and it will get too hot for the dog's nails which can hurt your dog. As for the accessories, use the 1/2" by 1/2"(120n grit fine) sanding bands on the 1/2" sanding drum mandrel. Do not use the various grinding stones because they get too hot for the dog's nails and again can hurt your dog!
Safety Tips and Additional Supplies:
If you have long hair, you may want to pull it up and out of the way so it does not get caught up in the spinning Dremel. Also, please be warned that little bits of debris and nail can fly off while you are grinding. If they go in your eye, it’s very painful and even dangerous. It is a good to wear protective eye covering while grinding. In addition, if you are sensitive to dust, you may want to wear a mask because there will be a good bit of dust when you grind and your face will be close to it.
Finally, always keep some quick-stop styptic powder handy when doing nails. The powder can be used to stop bleeding if you do nick the quick. Unlike clipping nails, if you do get too close and hit the quick when grinding, it is so slight that it does not bleed very much and doesn’t bother the dogs as much as when you "clip" the quick.
How to introduce the Dremel:
A proper introduction to the Dremel is the most important step to grinding your dog's nails. If the dog's first experience is negative, then you will have a long way to go to having a dog that will permit you to grind the nails. If done right, then your dogs will just relax and enjoy the pedicure.
When starting with a dog who has never had it done, do it over a period of days or even a couple of weeks depending on the dog's sensitivity and temperament. First, get the Dremel out and just let the dog sniff it and explore it. Then turn it on and off in the room with the dog and give the dog a treat for examining and exploring it (while off or "disarmed") and for not being afraid of its noise when on. After this is going well, (and, coincidentally, the dog is starting to associate the Dremel being taken out with a goodie) have the dog lay down and touch the Dremel to a SINGULAR, SOLITARY, SOLO nail and give the dog a treat with lots of praise. Please note, just "touch" Dremel to nail - do not actually grind the nail down. Then, gradually touch 2 nails and then a whole foot of nails... followed by a treat. Build up with a treat after each nail then wean down to a treat after each paw. Finally work up to doing all the nails on all the paws and the dog gets a BIG treat and praise when all done. Again, this is just "touching" the nails, no lengthy grinding. IMPORTANT: do not try to grind them down short completely nor do all the paws. Make the experience positive and to build up the grinding time gradually for the dog.
An effective technique to Dremel nails:
In order to grind nails effectively, it is important to understand how the nail grows and what it looks like inside there. The nail grows out from the base (closest to the paw). Simply, the nail consists of three main areas referred to as follows for this process: the hard outer shell ("shell"), the meaty area between the shell and the quick ("meat"), and the quick area of the nail that will bleed if you nick it ("quick"). The shell is the old growth. It is essentially dead material like the white tips of your own fingernails and toenails. The ‘meat’ right below is the new growth area that is in transition from quick to shell. It is not as hard as the shell, but it is not sensitive living flesh like the quick. Then, there is the quick. That is the portion of the nail that still is alive and growing with nerve endings in it and a steady blood flow. If you nick it or pinch it, it will hurt the dog and it will bleed. The quick grows out from the base and narrows as it extends out into and ends in the meat and "dead areas" of the nail. It also has a tendency to curve down inside the nail towards the ground. If you've ever seen overgrown nails, they usually curve down in a similar arc.
When you grind or clip nails, you bring the outer protective edge and covering of nail (the meat and shell) back closer to the quick. The natural reaction to having less protection out there is that the sensitive quick recedes. Thus, when you grind the nail, the closer you can come to the quick without nicking it, the further back you can force it to recede and the shorter you can eventually get the nail to be. Where the quick is, there is living flesh and you cannot grind it. Where the quick no longer is, there is meat or dead shell and you can grind it. So, the goal, when trying to get nails shorter, is to get the quick to recede back from the tip of the nail: the faster and the further, the better. In order to do this, you want to come as close as you can without hitting it. This is where the angle on the tip you grind is important.
The key angle:
Visualize if you were to grind the nail tip perpendicular to the floor (i.e., straight up and down), you can get more of the nail off close to the quick without actually nicking the quick. When you grind it’s easiest to hold the paw and position Dremel at a comparable angle as if paw was on the floor and then bring the Dremel to it at that angle. Start by going straight across the underside of the nail and remove all the rough stuff and uneven edges. If the nails have been let go a long time then take off the curling down point of the nail tip and bring it up to flush with the bottom of the nail. Then take off the top front edge or angle of the nail somewhat at a slant from the tip to the top of the nail. After that begin a straight vertical edge across the tip of the nail, coming back gradually to the quick. As you take back the tip, it will be solid then you will start to see a two-textured arch. You will see the hard outer shell on top and the meat under it in an upside down "U". As you grind back further, the nail shell will get thinner and the middle section will get "meatier" and larger. The meat section is actually a bit softer feeling than the shell if you put your finger on it. Eventually, the meaty area will have more of a circular (or if very near the bottom then an arched) center area becoming visible in it. You should see either a darker circle/arch area in the meat or a dark inner area with a white pinpoint. This is the quick that you are approaching. That is the point at which you can stop grinding back on the nail. Lastly, take off all the corners, the sides and all the rough edges around the tip and the quick to make a smooth nail.
Important rules:
You never, ever apply pressure to the nail with grinding head. Allow the speed of the spinning drum and the friction of the sand to do the grinding.
Never keep the Dremel in one spot longer than three seconds and never do the same nail for more than three seconds continuously. You can alternate around nails and then come back t o allow cooling time.
Always support the toe and nail you are currently working on. There will be some vibration from the grinding and your dog will be more comfortable if you lessen the effect of this by holding the toe in question. Also, this enables you to have better control in case your dog moves the paw so you don't accidentally grind fur or pads instead. Incidentally, if you push slightly on the underside of the pad, it will extend the nail out a bit further for easier grinding.
Nails are easier to maintain short than they are to restore to short. In some nails, the quick will never recede back to as short as it once was, and you will never get the nails back without. Therefore, Dremel at least once a week!
Before you begin grinding each time, examine your dog's nails. This is both a benefit of and an important part of nail care that only takes a few seconds. The condition and/or wear of your dog's nails can give you an early heads up about an unknown medical problem.
ROUNDWORMS (Ascariasis):
Clinical Signs: Diarrhea or constipation; most common in young puppies that often have a pot-bellied appearance.
Transmission: May be passed down from the mother (transplacental infection) or acquired from eggs ingested in the environment (fecal-oral).
Diagnosis: Eggs visible on fecal floatation or adult worms (white, round long worms—up to 10 to 12 cm in length) in stool or vomit Treatment: Some options include fenbendazole, pyrantel pamoate and monthly heartworm prevention helps prophylactically.
**Roundworms can cause visceral or ocular larva migrans in humans.** (Infection in humans occurs by accidental ingestion of the eggs or larvae.)
HOOKWORMS (Ancylostomiasis):
Clinical Signs: Diarrhea, weight loss, pale gums (secondary to anemia).
Transmission: Fecal-oral.
Diagnosis: Eggs seen on fecal floatation (adult worms too small to see in stool).
Treatment: Some options include fenbendazole and pyrantel pamoate.
**Hookworms can cause cutaneous larva migrans in humans.** (Avoid walking barefoot in infected environments.)
TAPEWORMS (Cestodiasis):
Clinical Signs: Worms visualized in the stool, pets sometimes seen scooting or licking anal area due to irritation.
Transmission: Ingestion of adult fleas.
Diagnosis: Can sometimes see eggs or egg packets in fecal floatation or direct exam. Most commonly, flat segmented worms are seen in stool broken into moving rice like pieces.
Treatment: Praziquantel can be used to treat tapeworms, plus flea control is essential to prevent recurrence. (Infection rarely occurs in humans in the United States but is possible and can be caused by ingesting a flea that is carrying a tapeworm larva.)
WHIPWORMS (Trichuriasis):
Clinical Signs: Bloody diarrhea, often with blood and/or mucus.
Transmission: Fecal-oral. Eggs can persist in the environment for months to years.
Diagnosis: Fecal floatation (often need repeated samples as sometimes, not many eggs are shed).
Treatment: One option is Fenbendazole given in 3 doses on 3 consecutive days and repeated in 3 weeks and 3 months. Drontal Plus can be used as well. Milbymycin heartworm preventative (Interceptor) can help prevent recurrence.
**Stool samples should be rechecked 3 weeks after treatment is completed**
COCCIDIA:
WHAT IS IT? Coccidia are single-celled organisms that reproduce within the cells that line the intestines. They are considered parasites although they are not the typical worms you already know about.
WHAT SYMPTOMS WOULD A DOG HAVE? Coccidia infections tend to cause watery diarrhea that sometimes contains blood or mucus. Many animals are asymptomatic and can clear the infection on their own, but coccidia can be quite debilitating in young or very small patients.
HOW IS IT DIAGNOSED? Coccidia cannot be seen with the naked eye —a fecal flotation test is the best way to obtain a definitive diagnosis. Occasionally, it takes several tests to diagnose the problem, especially in a young dog with diarrhea that is not responding to conventional treatment.
HOW DID MY PET GET COCCIDIA? Animals are infected with coccidia through fecal-contaminated ground. They swallow the coccidia oocysts from grooming or licking dirt off their feet or body. It is possible they may get this from playing with another infected animal that is actively shedding the oocytes.
ARE HUMANS SUSCEPTIBLE? Although there are some special species of coccidia that can affect people, humans cannot become infected with Isospora canis or Isospora felis (the most common species of the parasite that affects dogs and cats.)
HOW IS IT TREATED AND FOR HOW LONG? There are no medications that will kill coccidia, but there are drugs that are "coccidiostatic" and can inhibit them from reproducing. This essentially gives the immune system time to recover and help clear out the parasites.
The medication Toltrazuril (sulfone) can be extremely effective and can be used on puppies. Alternatively, often sulfa drugs such as Trimethoprim sulfa (TMZ) or sulfadimethoxine (Albon) are used, although other anti-parasites are sometimes used. An animal that is diagnosed should be treated - even if it doesn't have clinical signs - in an attempt to eliminate carriers. It is important to recheck a fecal sample 3 weeks after conclusion of the treatment.
GIARDIA:
WHAT IS IT? Giardia are microscopic protozoan (single celled) organisms that are found commonly in the intestines of many animals. The motile, tear-drop shaped trophozoite stage of Giardia live and "feed" in the small intestines and then mature into non-motile oocysts that are shed in the feces.
WHAT SYMPTOMS WOULD MY DOG OR CAT HAVE? Clinical signs of Giardia range from asymptomatic to mild, moderate or severe diarrhea. The diarrhea is often bloody or mucousy and often has a rancid odor. Affected animals may also have increased amount of gas production. Young, small or debilitated animals will be the most severely affected. The cysts are too small for the naked eye to see.
HOW IS IT DIAGNOSED? Giardia cysts can be detected in fecal flotations (best with centrifugation or Zinc Sulfate technique) and occasionally one can detect the motile trophozoites in a direct fecal smear. Sometimes the cysts are shed only intermittently requiring multiple fecal samples to be evaluated before they are detected. Stool can also be sent to an outside lab for a slightly more sensitive (and more expensive) antigen test to determine the presence of Giardia.
HOW DID MY DOG GET GIARDIA? Dogs become infected by ingesting Giardia oocysts directly in feces or from an area contaminated by feces of an affected animal (such as standing water). Giardia cysts can live for months outside a host in the correct environmental conditions with adequate moisture.
ARE HUMANS SUSCEPTIBLE? Giardia has been reported in humans although it is uncertain if the species is the same that affects other animals. It is presumed that people become infected more from contaminated water sources and the significance companion animals play as a source of infection is still uncertain. Until this is better determined, if your dog is infected with Giardia, continue to maintain good hygiene practices regarding feces disposal and frequent hand washing, especially if there are small children in the household. Clinical signs would be similar to those described above.
HOW IS IT TREATED AND FOR HOW LONG? There are multiple treatment options available including dewormers such as Fenbendazole (Panacur) and Albendazole or antibiotics like Metronidazole (Flagyl). Treatment should be carried out per instructions by your veterinarian for at least 5 days, and a fecal sample should be rechecked 2-3 weeks after completion of the prescribed medication.
