Training a Bull Terrier; what’s in your toolbox?
Bull Terriers are real characters, bursting with energy and a great sense of humor. They're a bit stubborn and can be laser-focused on their agenda. With the right mix of creativity and motivation, you can win them over.
Be aware of their knack for coming up with big ideas sometimes leading to big results, good or bad. Bull Terrier traits include loving you intensely and then, wrecking all your stuff.
They are Bull AND Terrier, the power of the Bulldog, and the tenacity of a Terrier. What could go wrong?
Training your dog doesn’t just occur during a weekly class. Every time you are in their presence, they are watching you and planning on how to train you.
Train your Bull Terrier before they train you; they are relentless.
So, stand tall, shoulders back, and take back your life.
Plan your training.
Training a dog involves a combination of tools, treats, and patience. The specific equipment you need can depend on the type of training you're undertaking and your dog's individual needs. Here's a list of things that can be useful for dog training:
A knowledgeable instructor: We are all a bit clumsy in the beginning and a good instructor will help you train your dog. Look for a positive person, who encourages you and has a flexible style. They should be happy to see a Bull Terrier. Remember, they are the instructor and you are the trainer.
Treats: Have your rewards ready. When we asked our Bullies what they like for training rewards, 99.9% said that they want what you are eating; small pieces of soft, delicious treats. They said that dry biscuits are for nerdy breeds.
Collar: Most people start with a flat buckle collar that is snug but comfortable. Lots of Bull Terrier people like to use a martingale collar, as it keeps the collar from slipping over your Bullies big fat head. Over the years you will build a collection of collars you didn’t like. There will be about 20 - 30 of them in a box in your garage. We all have them.
Leash: Most of us use a leash to keep our dogs from running away. Its real purpose is for you to communicate with your dog. Your leash must be comfortable in your hands. Your Bull Terrier can pull hard during their early training. Select one that doesn’t slide through and burn your hands. A soft, strong, leather lead that is 6 feet long is a great start.
Harness: A harness can be an alternative to a collar, especially for dogs prone to tracheal issues. Many handlers in scent work prefer a harness for their searches. Your Bullie will learn that different equipment = the task at hand.
Marking success: A handheld clicker is a useful tool for marking desired behaviors precisely, making it clear to your dog when they've done something right. Some trainers prefer to use the word “Yip!” to mark the moment of success.
Training pouch or vest: A pouch or vest to carry treats in, allows you to easily and quickly reward your dog during training sessions. Don’t forget to leave training treats available on your counter at home to help with quick training moments around the house.
Toys: Toys can be used as rewards during training. Some dogs are highly motivated by play, so having a favorite toy can be beneficial. After a fun training session, they can have some playtime with a favorite toy.
Long Line: A long training line can be used for recall training, allowing your dog more freedom while still maintaining control.
Training Mat or Blanket: A designated mat or blanket can be a useful cue for your dog to understand where to go and settle. It can be trained as a ‘home base’ while waiting their turn in a class.
Things to consider and be aware of:
Be calm and patient: Training a dog takes time, and each dog learns at their own pace. It's important to be patient and consistent, avoiding frustration.
Don’t be noisy with your body or your voice. Dogs are more in tune with our body language rather than our spoken language.
Your Bullie will match your energy, so move slowly and deliberately. If they are sitting quietly waiting for their treat and you rush your hand to their mouth, they will match your energy and jump up to grab the treat.
We all make mistakes when we train. Don’t worry about it; your Bullie will be forgiving, for the most part.
Laugh. Bull Terriers are funny dogs; laugh and enjoy your goofball.
Repetition is on your side. The more your Bullie performs a trained task, the more apt they will be to repeat it.
We strongly recommend that your student learn to make eye contact with you. You can also save their life with skills like COME!, LEAVE IT! DROP IT! We believe that our Bull Terriers would probably reciprocate and save our lives as long as we had soft delicious treats to reward them.
Life with a Bull Terrier will also be easier on your ego and sore back if you train them to be examined by a Veterinarian. It could be difficult to get Vet appointments if your Bull Terrier always attempts to train the Vet by showing them they can’t touch their ears or look at their teeth and feet.
Use your soft, delicious treats to teach them to have their ears cleaned, teeth brushed and toenails filed. Yes, it is all possible.
Socialization: Bull Terriers can be strong-willed, so early socialization is crucial. Expose them to various people, environments, and other animals to prevent potential behavioral issues.
Train in novel places: There is no place like home but practice your training in different environments. Once they perform a task well at home, take them to a new place to generalize their training. This helps your Bull Terrier understand that training applies in various situations, not just at home or in a specific training area.
YOUR Communication: Use clear, simple cues and body language to convey what you want from your dog. Being consistent helps prevent confusion. Don’t be noisy with your words, hands, and body motions. Your dog doesn't speak your language but is a master of watching your motions.
Consistency: Dogs thrive on routine and clear expectations. Consistency in cues, rewards, and rules helps them understand what is expected of them.
Positive Reinforcement: Rewarding desired behaviors with treats, praise, or playtime is a powerful tool in dog training. It encourages the dog to repeat those behaviors.
Timing: The timing of your rewards or corrections is crucial. Reward immediately after a desired behavior, to reinforce that behavior. Ignore undesirable behavior (this is difficult but vital) and redirect your Bully to a behavior they can perform well.
Observation Skills: Pay attention to your dog's body language and behavior. This helps you understand their needs and whether they are ready to learn.
Adaptability: Be flexible and willing to adjust your training methods based on your dog's responses. Not all dogs learn the same way, so being adaptable is key.
Problem-Solving: Dogs can encounter challenges during training. Allow them some time to sort it out and come up with a solution.
Empathy: Recognize that dogs have their feelings, needs, and limitations. Being empathetic helps build a strong bond and trust between you and your dog. Remember, every dog is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. It's important to tailor your training methods to suit your dog's personality, temperament, and learning style.
Mutual awareness, a system of communication and recognition of leadership are components of a relationship that you want to develop with your dog. One of the tools to accomplish this goal is the automatic check-inA dog who, without prompting, offers the behavior of eye contact with its leader is giving an automatic check-in (auto check-in).
An auto check-in is a naturally occurring behavior for puppies. Puppies begin displaying auto check-ins with their dams as soon as they can see, around 14 days. While they are with their mothers, they are continuously giving eye contact and she continuously rewards the puppies to reinforce these auto check-ins. For example, mom has a toy and the puppy comes forward with eye contact and says, “Please may I have that toy?”. It is likely that mom will either move towards the puppy offering engagement with the toy, avert her eyes disengaging, turn her head, stronger avoidance, or get up and leave the toy for the puppy, thereby saying “Sure you can”. On the other hand, as a teacher and leader, with just a look mom can send the message “No, you cannot have that toy now.” It is the auto check-in and her responses to this behavior that allows her to teach her puppies about safety, appropriate behavior and boundaries.
As the puppies age they begin to become aware of their environment, littermates and other dogs in the pack. It is within the social context of their littermates that they expand their opportunities to practice auto check-ins. Eye contact with a littermate may be communicating the desire, “Gee, I really would love to play with you and/or that toy/stick/ball that you are playing with”. In response, the littermate’s eye contact may be all that is needed to let the puppy know “Sure you can join and play with me and the object of attraction (toy)” or “Don’t even think about it”. The same process happens with other dogs in the pack. Some dogs are more benign and generous in their teachings, offering more lenient boundaries, while others are less permissive and more committed to stronger boundaries. The more puppies learn to read and respect different boundaries from their littermates, and housemates and are ultimately exposed to other balanced dogs who model good, appropriate teaching, the more balanced they will be as adults. They will also learn to read the language of under-socialized dogs. This is a skill set that is learned and then practiced amongst dogs throughout their lifetime. Under-socialized dogs can become poor readers and communicators, leading to a host of potential problems.
When your puppy comes home between 7 and 10 weeks, he is frequently underfoot offering auto check-ins, looking for approval and guidance. He will take his cues from other dogs in the house, cats and of course humans. What tends to happen is that we do not reinforce the auto check-ins frequently enough. If auto check-ins are not captured and rewarded, the behavior with you, the human partner, will extinguish as your puppy matures and becomes more independent.
– The auto check-in acknowledges you as the partner and often the decision-maker or leader in the relationship. Partners in leadership roles pay attention and they make appropriate decisions for the safety and well-being of their followers. Champ’s auto check-in may indicate he is looking to you as the decision maker when he wants to do something, i.e., go outside, come inside, get a toy, play fetch, play with another dog, go for a swim. He may feel uncertain in an environment and is looking for support – perhaps asking for more space, wanting a pause to process or question proceeding. Your response provides sought-after information for Champ, be it allowing or denying the request or accommodating for concern.
- A dog who offers auto check-ins may be letting his handler know that he is feeling uncomfortable about something in the environment, i.e., an approaching dog, a child on a bicycle, new surroundings, construction work, loud traffic, etc. The handler can acknowledge the information and make situational adjustments, such as providing a wider birth when passing the construction site. This, in turn, can have a positive relationship-building effect on Champ, letting him know you will pilot him to a more comfortable zone.
- When Champ offers an auto check-in and you respond, you are strengthening the communication bond between the two of you. The fact that Champ can look to you for guidance tells you that he trusts your decisions.
- As Champ offers you auto check-ins, you can give him more freedom, knowing that he will check in and not make his own decisions. A dog that does not offer auto check-ins will potentially be more drawn by the environment and consequently may make decisions without your input - decisions that can potentially get him into trouble.
-Auto check-ins encourage you, the owner, to pay attention to your dog and the environment. If you are otherwise engaged, as in chatting on your cell phone or listening to your iPod, the auto check-ins will be missed, and the behavior will extinguish itself as Champ will redirect his focus from you to the environment.
This is a two-party game; both human and canine must participate for auto check-ins to be successful.
The best part about an auto check-in is that it is never too late to have this spontaneous, natural eye contact become a meaningful communication tool in your relationship. The more auto check-ins that can be captured and rewarded, the more auto check-ins Champ will offer.
Start with you and Champ in a quiet room. Sit in a chair for a short time while ignoring Champ. Then, get up from the chair. If Champ offers an auto check-in, as if to say “Where are you going?” give him a “YES” and a high-value food reward, while telling him how fabulous he is. Have some treats that you can give by hand and some you can drop on the floor. When Champ finishes the treat, he may well look up, offering another auto check-in. Capture that by marking it with “Yes” and a reward. With time, you can start tossing the reward treats about, adding some contextual variation.
Do this exercise several times a day, adding a couple of different rooms each day. Occasionally, give him a JACKPOT REWARD (5 to 8 high-value tiny treats given in rapid-fire succession). Try walking with Champ from one room to another. Stop walking and wait for an auto check-in. If Champ gives you an auto check-in, say “YES” and reward with high-value treats and verbal praise. After a few days of this, you should start to notice that Champ offers auto check-ins more frequently. Every auto check-in that you capture earns a reward. Of course, you may use a clicker to mark or a different monosyllabic marker word.
Now it is time to move to a slightly more distracting situation. Snap on Champ's leash and walk him toward the door like he is going for a walk. Be sure you are well stocked with high-value treats. Before you get to the door, stop and wait for Champ to offer an auto check-in. After 10 seconds of waiting, if Champ has not offered the behavior, make a noise or tap him lightly on his side or back between his hip bones to interrupt his outward focus. As soon as Champ offers the auto check-in, say, “YES” and give him a JACKPOT reward. Soon, this will be the perfect opportunity to use a “Life Reward”. When Champ offers auto check-ins as a “May I?” at the door, reward by opening the door so he can go out and play. Sometimes you will not be able to grant Champ’s request. In these situations, still honor the auto check-in with “YES” and a substitute reward.
Slowly and carefully move into other more diverse environments, all the while making the priority success for your dog. Keep in mind, that distance is your friend. Don’t expect immediate success close to the playground of excited, active children. Start 20/30/40 yards away. Let your dog look and process - be patient. If they can’t check-in, you are likely too close. Add more distance or come back at a quieter time.
You may want to put a cue to your auto check-in BUT then it wouldn’t be an auto check-in. A “look” or “watch” cue can certainly be taught, but that’s a different behavior and asked of your dog for different reasons.
Reinforcement is anything that increases the frequency of a behavior. Food (treats) is a great high-quality reward that will serve as a reinforcer for many dogs. It can be a great tool to cement a behavior. That said there are many other rewards that can be used to reinforce behaviors. Anything that your dog likes can be used as a reward and thus a reinforcer of behavior. Different breeds of dogs as well as individuals within that breed find different things rewarding. For example, retrievers like to swim; therefore, they will offer behaviors to earn a swim. A swim is not a reward for most Pekinese, but a cuddle on a lap would likely be.
Spend some time thinking about what YOUR dog finds to be reinforcing in different environments. Maybe Champ offers auto check-ins in the house and is happy to work for low-level rewards such as praise or his own dog food. On the street where there is a higher level of distraction, in order to get auto check-ins, you may need a higher value reward, like baked chicken, roast beef or hotdogs.
Remember to reward the behavior with the appropriate level of reinforcement, so the behavior repeats itself. For example, on a walk-through town (a very distracting environment) if Champ offers a desirable behavior, such as an auto check-in, and a low-level reward (praise) is the paycheck Champ will stop offering the behavior. Focusing on his environment is more reinforcing. However, if a high-level reward is given, it is more likely that Champ will offer more auto check-ins.
Develop a toolbox of rewards that suits your individual dog and can be used to reinforce desirable behaviors. Some possible rewards include treats, toys, verbal praise, smiles, belly rubs, and cuddling. Games and activities, such as retrieving, hunting, walks, car rides, swims and hide-and-seek also make great reward tools for your box. Additionally, the simple joy of one more swim or one more retrieve can also be a reward. Life Rewards are things Champ may take for granted like his meals, being allowed to go outside to play, coming inside from the yard, putting on a leash to go for a walk, being let out of the car, being let out of his crate or just about any other behavior that Champ needs/wants in his day to day of life. When you are using Life Rewards to reinforce desirable behaviors you wait until Champ asks for something. Going for a walk is a good example. When it is time for Champ’s walk, he may be excited and jumping around. Look at Champ and ask for a behavior that he knows solidly (we want Champ to be successful) such as “SIT”. If Champ sits, say “YES” and give him a Life Reward: snap on his leash to take him for a walk. If you have a jumpy, bouncy dog, the same concept will work well at mealtime. If Champ refuses or breaks the “SIT” at the door or at mealtime, simply walk away and return in a minute to try to elicit the behavior. Champ needs to say “Please” when he is asking for something.
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Puppy mouthing and biting are normal behaviors in a developing puppy. Mouthing and chewing are some of the tools your puppy uses to explore their world. After all, they can't pick things up with their paws! Puppies can and will grab and nip when playing or when over-stimulated. As their excitement increases, they mouth and grab harder. We need to teach them socially appropriate behavior.
Typical puppy biting can get out of hand if not managed properly. Rough play, vigorous petting, high-pitched voices, squealing, and jerky or quick movements can over-stimulate a puppy and make things worse.
Do not play roughly with your puppy (or allow others to do so), even if you have no problems stopping puppy biting. Your puppy will learn that rough play and playbiting are OK unless someone is able to stop them. An over-stimulated puppy is difficult to manage for many adults and impossible for children. Rough play sends an unclear message to your puppy about acceptable behavior, and it teaches them nothing about self-control.
Children usually need help learning the self-control and skills to interact and play appropriately with a puppy or dog. Teach them to be calm and gentle. Puppies need good experiences with kids and kids need good experiences with puppies. Children should always be supervised around all dogs, including puppies.
Growling and or biting over-grooming, handling, toys or food may not be typical puppy biting. Address the above promptly with a skilled trainer who uses non-confrontational, positive methods. If you are not sure, check with your instructor.
Bite Inhibition is the ability to control the jaws and use the mouth very gently. It is important for puppies to learn this when they still have puppy teeth and relatively weak jaws. Their mother gives them their first lessons by removing access to the milk supply when they excitedly grab too hard with milk teeth. Further lessons come from littermates, and then, ideally, from socially appropriate adult dogs in the household. Then it’s the adult owner’s turn. Bite Inhibition is one of the most important skills you can teach your dog for a lifetime of safety.
Instead of teaching your puppy not to bite or mouth at all (which may be what you wanted before reading this article), first teach them to be very gentle. They can't learn to mouth gently if they are not mouthing at all. Your goal is zero pressure: start with No Painful Bites, a guideline coined by veterinary behaviorist Dr Ian Dunbar.
When your puppy has learned to mouth with little or no pressure, the ultimate goal is to end the mouthing. Note that it doesn't pay to shut off puppy biting before your puppy has learned, in a multi-step process that they must be very, very careful with human skin. If they were well socialized with their dam, litter and other adult canine teachers, they learned to be “dog” gentle. However, dogs have far tougher skin than humans. Puppies must learn to be gentle with people.
The rules of touching human skin with the mouth must be clear, consistent and kind for the puppy to understand and learn. Focus on acceptable behavior, and teach your pup to use its mouth gently and softly on humans. Bite inhibition is a learned behavior.
It is your job to create situations where you can praise (calmly and sincerely, not excitedly) your pup for using their mouth appropriately. They need to get it right 8 or 9 times out of 10. If they are constantly getting it wrong, they are practicing an unwanted behavior and you are likely to be frustrated. The ideas below will help you to be more effective. It pays to be proactive rather than reactive. Assume puppy biting is going to happen and learn to channel appropriate behavior consistently, smoothly and calmly – don’t wait for your puppy to grab you first.
Play with them nicely, pet them gently, and praise them for any gentle mouthing or licking. They have to know what's right to distinguish right from wrong. Your puppy gets attention and other things they like for doing what's right.
Here are some ideas that have helped many puppy owners:
▪ Put a bit of mashed banana (or something your puppy wants to lick) on your palm and praise your pup for licking it off. Peanut butter, cream cheese, baby food meat and softened kibble are other ideas.
▪ Feed treats on your palm – like feeding a horse – to avoid the teeth. Slowly transition from the palm to the fingers.
▪ Praise anytime your puppy connects with nose, tongue, lips or (it will happen by accident at some point) gentle teeth. “Gooooooood girrrrrrrl / boooooooyy, excellennnnnnnnnnnt, etc. – in an easy, relaxed voice.
▪ Offer a toy or a bully stick as an acceptable alternative before your puppy nips.
▪ Transition from No Painful Bites to not biting at all. Remember – before your puppy learns to not touch humans with teeth, they need to learn how to use their mouth gently.
The instant your puppy gets too rough with their mouth, stop all attention. Disengage, remove eye contact, go quiet and still – fold your arms into your body. You may have to leave the area briefly – some puppies will simply grab onto your pants.. (Baby gates help.) For some puppies, disengaging for a count of 10 will quiet things down, but you may need a bit longer.
Re-engage with a toy that they will mouth instead of you, or have a short fun training session. Teaching hand touch or chin in hand are fun tricks that are also very useful in daily life. There are many excellent resources with puppy training information. Keep play low level. They need many chances to get it right.
You should see a decrease in the severity of the biting very quickly. Do remember that puppies do not generalize well and they will need to learn variations of the lesson in new places, with different distractions with new people and at different levels of excitement. As they learn, you will react and withdraw attention for decreasing amounts of pressure until your puppy reaches your goal of mouthing with no pressure.
Remember that negative attention is better than no attention. At times, puppies (like kids) are too wild to calm down. They can be so stimulated that they simply don’t have the self-control to stop. They can also be overtired and actually need a nap. When this happens, puppies need a rest period in their crate to settle. This is a temporary but important solution - work on the mouthing behavior another time.
You must help children. It is unrealistic and unfair to expect them to do this on their own. Children tend to move, squeal and interact with puppies in unpredictable ways that overstimulate them. Adults are responsible for setting puppies and kids up for success.
Once your puppy is consistently licking and mouthing with no pressure, the frequency is likely to decrease by itself. The next step is to end the mouthing behavior. Anticipate! Redirect your puppy to a toy before they puts their mouth on you. Don't wait for them to make the mistake. Anticipation is key. Otherwise, you may accidentally train your puppy to mouth you to get attention. Reward them when they take the toy; withdraw your attention and the toy if they mouth you. At this point, you may not have to leave the area but withdraw attention. You will start to recognize the situations that can over-stimulate your puppy. At times, simply petting them may start the wild wiggle that ends in mouthiness.
Your puppy WILL chew: puppies and adolescents need to chew and use their jaws. It pays to build a preference for chewing food toys or marrow bones as a habit. What could be better than a pup, adolescent or adult focused on appropriate chew toys?
Create regular, structured opportunities. Give your puppy one to two dedicated chewing sessions in their crate daily with a newly stuffed food toy or other desired chewie. One session may be fine, but for some puppies, two are better. Daily, supervised chewing time will also help tire them out and will help with the process of teething.
There are a number of excellent interactive food toys on the market now. West Paws™ and Kong™ both make several excellent ones. Bully sticks and tight rawhide rolls are good too, but they are also excellent for redirecting behavior and can be reserved for that purpose. When buying animal products, look for companies that wash and slow roast – avoid products that have been treated chemically.
Try teaching your puppy to carry a toy - if they are carrying a toy, they can't be mouthing a person. Give them a suitable outlet for natural behavior. Let them know how much you approve of the carrying behavior rather than focusing on the mouthing behavior you don't want. Fetch is another good game.
It often helps for us to handle and play with our pup’s toys – they really seem to like what we have handled and what we focus on. It can also help to clean the scent of dog saliva off items that you don’t want your puppy to chew.
Your puppy may need more mental stimulation - bored puppies can have a lot of fun with a game (puppy biting) that makes their humans act like big squeaky toys. Short training sessions are great mental exercise plus you are teaching your puppy behaviors that get them the attention they crave. Sniffing games are also wonderful for puppies (and adults.) Sniffing is an innate behavior that is both tiring and satisfying. Sniffing for food and treats is highly motivating. The simplest game is a kibble scatter. If there are multiple dogs, make sure there are no resource-guarding issues and/or make separate games.
Some puppies do a lot of biting because they need more physical exercise. The reverse is also possible - puppies can get too much exercise or activity and have trouble settling because they are always wound up and ready to go. An appropriately tired puppy is a good puppy. An exhausted overstimulated puppy is a challenge. If you are not sure, check with your instructor.
Make sure that your puppy attends a puppy kindergarten and socialization class that teaches with positive methods and provides appropriate (not free for all) interaction with other puppies. Continue their canine education outside of puppy class by arranging regular play dates with socially appropriate adult dogs. Good canine ‘teachers’ will have a history of interacting well with puppies. They will play with your puppy and will be firm but not harsh when the puppy is over-stimulated. If you don’t know if an adult is appropriate with puppies, be very careful - not all adult dogs tolerate puppies well. Dogs who teach puppies well are worth their weight in gold!
Make it harder for your puppy to get it wrong: restrict their access to the house so they can't chase and grab. Play with them in their gated-off, puppy-proof area. Make it easier for them to get it right.
Lots of books will tell you punishment is OK, so why not: correct your puppy verbally in no uncertain terms, force and hold their mouth shut, pinch their lip, smack them, shake them by the scruff of the neck or toss a shake can at them? There are three reasons why not.
First, there is a very real possibility that the puppy will get wilder and bite more when punished. This is a common puppy reaction and very frustrating for owners who are trying to do their best.
Second, the puppy can learn that hands are frightening and cause pain. This is the exact opposite of what we want – we want hands to predict good things and kind treatment. Puppies can learn to be afraid of sudden noises and that people, including beloved owners, may act in unpredictable and untrustworthy ways. Such puppies can become hand-shy and noise-sensitive at a time in their lives when they need to be socialized. Puppies who are hand-shy or noise-sensitive are more stressed by routine grooming, meeting new people, vet visits and more. You don't have to hit a sensitive puppy to make them hand-shy - for some individuals grabbing and forcing a muzzle shut will start the process.
Third, what if it works? What if your puppy never bites again after one of these punishments? Is this a perfect fix? No way! How are they going to learn to be gentle with their mouth?
Treat puppy biting and chewing like house training – it’s your job to set your puppy up for success and to channel their behavior appropriately. Be proactive rather than reactive – they are learning ALL the time. Use your peripheral vision and be prepared to teach your puppy anytime they head for you or are near enough to grab you. It takes a little time now, but raising babies and toddlers is a “now” kind of a process. It will really pay off and make life much easier when your pup is a larger adolescent.
Teaching your puppy the rules of Bite Inhibition, and getting them focused on appropriate chew toys are two of the very best things you can do for your puppy. You are dealing positively with behaviors that can drive you crazy. You are training for future safety. You are teaching some of the many lessons of self-control that your puppy needs to learn in order to be a good canine citizen.
Line Farr, CNWI linefarr@gmail.com Copyright 2004, all rights reserved. Revised 2023.
Courtesy of Sandy Lindstedt & Chris Mason
Physical exercise is a great way to tire your dog and it’s absolutely necessary. Some dogs don’t get enough and need more. Some get plenty and actually need to learn how to relax and chill. Some get enough physical exercise and are physically fit but mentally bored – oops, mischief coming! Some have instincts or physiological needs that must be satisfied in order for them to settle down and relax. Investigating (that would be getting into stuff) and chewing may come into this category. Yikes!
Take heart, there are other ways besides physical exercise to help tire your dog that uses their gifts of thinking, sniffing and chewing. I’ll take them in reverse order.
“What, chewing a gift?”, I hear you say (wail, sigh.) Well, OK, how about a strength or a talent? It’s part of being a dog. Chewing seems pretty bad when the little darlings are teething as small pups. That’s just the first stage and is the perfect time for good bite inhibition (be soft with your mouth) and self-control (don’t grab human skin or clothing) training.
Most dogs, start another chewing phase somewhere between 7 and 10 months of age. Ask most Labrador Retriever owners, particularly the ones who thought Larry was doing so well at 6 months that they got rid of the crate - then came home to rearrange drywall and “Stick” style cabinetry. This new need to chew is physiological – the bones of their jaw and their final dentition are developing. It needs to be satisfied, not suppressed (trying to suppress chewing will backfire), with appropriate and authorized chews.
Give one to two dedicated chewing sessions a day in the crate. If your puppy is driving you nuts, make it two sessions. You can feed part of your dog’s regular ration in a Kong or a West Paws food toy so that he has to lick and chew it out. Lickimat-style slow feeders are also excellent. Get several Kongs and make up a bunch at one time. Freezing food or treats into interactive toys can stretch out the time it takes and soothes sore gums. Make sure that a puppy is not frustrated by being hungry and not having to work too hard at first. Later they will develop stronger jaws and more persistence.
It’s very important to keep an eye on things and make sure that if your dog is chewing something like a rawhide or bully stick he is not biting off chunks and swallowing them. Also, make sure they are not chewing chunks off a nylabone or interactive toy.
The good news about chewing exercise? It satisfies a need, it keeps them entertained and it tires them out. That’s right, you can help tire a dog out with chewing exercise. That’s also a good tip for the winter months when cabin fever can set in or when dogs are on enforced rest due to injury.
Sniffing games are another great way to tire your dog. Scenting ability is hardwired into dogs. Working at sniffing uses lots of energy – it’s a very intense way to work while not careening around or using the furniture for gymnastics or teething. Hide The Kibble is a great game and you can invent many variations.
Use kibbles that would otherwise go in their food bowl or small chunks of foods they like – carrots, apples, small biscuits, meat treats, etc. There is no reason to suddenly make a huge increase in the total amount of food a dog is getting – use more for sniffing (and chewing and training) and less in the bowl. It’s fine to spice things up with special treats, but don’t feel that you suddenly have to feed your dog a lot more.
Start with a background that contrasts with the food so the dog can see it as well as sniff it. Then move to a background where it blends in so the dog will rely on his nose rather than his eyes. Introduce hiding difficulty gradually. At first, hide something in plain sight. Put it down, indicate it and say “Find It”, “Seek” or your cue of choice. Have a word that only means “find the food.” If you have a dog who loves to hunt for toys, use a different word. Make it clear when there is food to be found and when there isn’t. To your dog, the word means “Game On!”
Restrain the dog gently, put down the kibble, cue “Seek” and release. Repeat a couple of times. Now put it around a corner – of a room, of a chair, etc. Next, use a gate, an ex-pen or a crate to hide a treat further than you can reach while restraining your dog. Reward the dog for getting in the crate, set up the nose challenge, and then get them started. Always use the cue so that they learn that if you say “Seek” there is food to find.
Once they have the idea, you can lay trails of kibbles to track around the room, around furniture, around corners, to another room, spacing them out as they get more proficient. You can make a scattershot pattern in a room as well. Instead of woofing down kibble from a bowl at the speed of light, they have to find each one. They are using up energy and having a blast – what could be better?
I’m going to get short and sweet here: think training. Anything you can think of - manners, tricks, conformation ring behaviors, the foundation for rally or agility, therapy – anything!
Train 10- 15 minutes a day, but in shorter sessions. A minute here, two minutes there, 30 seconds, 5 minutes – it all adds up and uses your dog’s brain. As they learn, challenge them to try harder – enough so they want to figure it out, not so much that you both become frustrated. This will vary for different dogs. Tailor your training to the dog you have with you at the moment. For puppies, very short sessions, max 30 seconds to a minute of focus, then go to play, petting or – a potty trip In reality, your dog is always learning from you, formal training session or not. Folding training into daily living, helps build a well-balanced companion.
Jane Messineo Lindquist’s super training book “When Pigs Fly” has garnered praise and awards throughout the dog world and is an excellent overall training book.
For dogs who have a hard time settling, check out Suzanne Clothier’s Really Real Relaxation.
Why training? Because using your dog’s mind helps to tire them out. A well-exercised dog who is physically fit and who is also bored can be irritating, destructive or both. Training teaches them stuff to do that is appropriate, and it allows you both to develop a great partnership, which will flow over into everything you do.
Line Farr, CNWI Copyright 2009, revised 2023
By: Mary Remer CPDT-KA What A Good Dog, LLC Founder, Director of Training
Do you have a trained leash puller? Unwittingly it is possible to create a dog who believes that part of the task in getting from point A to point B is to pull with as much conviction as can be mustered. Puppies often learn to become successful pullers at an early age. The puppy is so cute pulling to get to the neighbor or the neighbor’s dog to say hello – we follow the tugging pup while the neighbor, crouching down with open arms, cheerleads with encouragement: “Oh, what a cute puppy. Come say Hello!” And, after all, we certainly do not want to have a shy or aggressive pup, so we hold tight with half-hearted “slowdowns” while thinking about how adorable and outgoing our little Champ is. It only takes a few reinforcements for the behavior to stick. Before you know it, Champ is 7 months old, has become an expert puller, your neck and shoulders are requiring massage, and no one wants to walk the not-so-little Champ any more. The neighbor is suggesting Manners classes, but the breeder has told you NO training school – Champ is going to be a SHOW DOG and he must not learn to sit or have his spirit taken out of him by the regiments of training classes. The bottom line is that whatever Champ’s career is destined to be, show dog or not, he should learn to walk without pulling on the leash. Further, Champ can learn to walk nicely along with many other behaviors without having his spirit broken by the jerk and release method.
Let’s rethink leash walking and teach a prevent-pulling approach that can be used with puppies and proficient pullers. Starting from the first leash lesson, pulling is never reinforced, nor is a tight leash. At What A Good Dog (whatagooddoginc.com), leash walking lessons start with teaching a “following” exercise inside in a low-stimulus environment. I am assuming that the puppy has been desensitized to a collar and leash. For puppies that are used to a leash but use it as a chew toy, we spray the leash LIGHTLY with a Bitter Apple or Bitter Lime spray and use treats as a distraction. We could also use a light chain leash as metal is usually not regarded as a tasty substance. Step one of the “following” exercise begins with the leader (that’s you) having a hearty supply of soft treats (steak, string cheese, hot dogs, chicken, tortellini) the size of your baby fingernail (no energy wasted chewing – that is a distraction – or getting the crumbs off the floor – that is another distraction). Face the pup, holding a 6-foot leash in your right hand – leaving 4 feet between you and the pup – with treats in your left hand. Happily, say your puppy’s name and “HERE” and then back up using the treats to lure the puppy to follow. When your pup follows, praise and feed. Do multiple, fun, treat-filled training sessions in different rooms in your house. Then, try the garage. When this is going well inside, move to the yard, the driveway and then to the sidewalk.
For step two, go back to your initial low stimulus training area inside. Make sure the leash is in your right hand, treats in your left hand, and start moving backwards. When your pup is following well, plant your right foot, step back with your left foot and, now with both feet planted, lure your pup with the treat in your left hand in a counterclockwise circle to your left side so your puppy is now facing the same direction as you. Step forward with your left foot and walk, encouraging your puppy with “LET’S GO” and treats. You might want to practice this without your puppy, as it is important to keep your puppy’s momentum going while changing directions. Keep the treats in your left hand (leash remains in your right hand) and feed from your thumb and index finger with the palm side of your hand facing your pup. Praise and feed when your pup is beside your left leg on a loose leash. After going forward for 15 to 20 feet stop and go backwards again using your puppy’s name and “HERE”. Repeat both steps a couple of times. Slowly increase the distance going forward but whenever your puppy begins to get ahead of you or pull, immediately go back to following. If your pup lunges ahead and pulls you can also STOP, say nothing (no reinforcement, positive or negative), wait till your pup comes back and then resume. If your pup holds back or lunges forward repeatedly, you need to do more “following” exercises. As your puppy becomes more proficient at following and walking beside you, decrease the frequency of the treats but continue with lavish praise. Be sure your praise and treats are being timed correctly. Remember: what you reinforce will be repeated.
If you would like to retrain an older, committed puller, we recommend the “following” work. As an added impetus, take out some of Champ’s food allotment for the day – put it in a baggie with some special treats and this becomes an incentive and potential reward. Try working well before or well after designated meal times. The rewards are not earned unless Champ is following well or walking beside you on a loose leash. The food and treats that are not earned in the daily sessions are not added back to the food bowl and no additional food is added to the bowl the next day. Depending on the amount of incentive used, the most committed puller will usually catch on in a couple of days with this “Learn to Earn” program.
An additional technique, “Stand Like a Tree”, can be used for puppies and the committed puller. Whenever the leash is tight the consequence for Champ is everything stops – trees don’t move and trees don’t speak, so NOTHING happens until the leash is loose. As soon as the leash becomes loose, continue walking forward. If you walk and the leash remains loose, even for a couple of steps, capture the opportunity to praise and treat. Walking in straight lines invites pulling so make the walk interesting by changing directions, serpentine, circling, etc.
Ultimately, we teach two gears for leash walking. The first is the above “LET’S GO” which is walking by your side for the purpose of getting from point A to point B. The second gear we call “WALK ON” or “GO SNIFF” which is taught after “LET’S GO” and gives the dog more length of lead and allows for some sniffing – but never any pulling. More on “WALK ON” in another article. For now, the leash length is very slowly increasing. The further away Champ is from you the less control you have. Flexi-leads are not recommended, at least until Champ is well-trained to not pull and has good solid etiquette.
Leash walking, as we teach it at What A Good Dog, relates to the basic premise that HUMANS should lead and dogs should follow. Even with your puppy walking at your side, you are the guide and director of the walk. As well as being unsafe for humans and canines, pulling is disrespectful behavior. Take the time to teach good leash walking skills – practice, practice, practice! Good leash walking practices are a vital component of a good relationship. So, enjoy the outside with Champ and have a GREAT walk!
